Textile Skirt

Origin: Kuba Tribe, D.R. Congo
Composition: loomed raffia, pigment/natural dyes

The embroidered, dyed, and appliqué decorated raffia cloths of the Kuba peoples of the Kasai river region of the Democratic Republic of Congo (formerly Zaire) are the best known survivors of an ancient African tradition of fine quality raffia cloth weaving that was once widespread across the whole of Central Africa.

Similar embroidered cloths from the Kongo kingdom on the coast to the west were greatly admired in post-Renaissance Europe and entered the curio cabinets and treasuries of nobles and kings as the finest products of African artistry alongside the better known ivory salt cellars and other carvings from Benin and coastal Sierra Leone.

A 16th century Portuguese painting of the Annunciation depicts the Virgin and the angel kneeling on one of these embroidered raffia cloth with a typical Kongo design. More recently their mastery of abstract patterning was a source of inspiration to artists such as Picasso, Klee, and Matisse, who displayed part of his large collection on the wall of his studio.

The main ceremonial occasions and court rituals for which long raffia dance skirts and embroidered cloth panels, mbal, were once produced are quite rare events today. The continued survival of the techniques in an age where most Kuba people wear factory produced cloth for everyday dress is mainly due to the importance of embroidered and appliqué cloth in funeral celebrations. Fine cloths are accumulated within the matrilineages over several generations, with much debate over which examples are suitable for use in the ceremonial presentations and exchanges accompanying funerals. The Kuba apparently believe that they would not be recognised by their clan ancestors in the land of the dead unless they were correctly dressed in high quality raffia textiles.

Although the standard of workmanship in many of the textiles produced in the region today is sadly not what it once was, the best new cloths still display the love of pattern and the remarkable improvisational design flair for which the Kuba have become known worldwide (© Duncan Clarke, Edition 11/1/2002.) While the age of each skirt in SUJARO’s collection is not known, their condition and quality is superior.